Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently defined its essence: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to learn these tales and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
